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7.
The matching choice of fusible
interlining and fabric
The matching choice of fusible interlining and fabric is
to choose appropriate lining reasonably according to the
requirements of garment and fabric to achieve the best combination.
Because of the depending and complementary characteristic
of fusible interlining and garment, fusible interlining
can fully embody its function value only if it matches garment
or fabric well. Vice versa, garment can perfectly achieve
its use value only if it contains appropriate fusible lining.
When choosing fusible interlining, we should pay more attention
to the following related elements:
1). Clothing design style
Clothing
style is the distillation of clothing design. So when we
choose lining, we should firstly consider its style consistency
with clothes. There are many kinds of garment with various
styles such as high or medium ceremonial dress, graceful
leisure clothes, decent business suit, casual house clothes
and colorful fashionable clothes. Among them, the design
characteristic of ceremonial dress is fit and it can give
prominence to body beauty. So we should choose and use the
lining which is full and shape-retentive, such as shuttle-woven
raising cloth, warp-knitted weft lining; the design characteristic
of leisure clothes lays particular stress on loose in order
to give prominence to people's dynamic beauty. So we should
choose and use the lining which has good pliability, drape
and elasticity such as warp-knitted weft lining, non-woven
lining; while fashionable clothes pursue the diversity of
styles and it has wide fabric choice. So we can choose the
lining according to the fabric.
2). Garment's function requirement
Garment's function is mainly to pack and protect
human body. From these two points, there are heat retention,
comfortability, aesthetic perception, wrinkle resistance,
shape-retention, washability, sturdiness, iron-free property,
color fastness and other weaving characteristics. These
characteristics form the various requirements of fusible
interlining. And when we choose fusible interlining, we
should consider these wearing characteristics carefully.
Of course, different garments have different key characteristics
and their different parts also have different use requirements.
Therefore, these requirements should be fulfilled according
to specific conditions.
For example, high-grade western-style clothes' main body
has the use characteristics like comfortability, shape-retention,
beauty, etc. so we should choose the woven lining which
has full appearance, elasticity and good pliability such
as warp-knitted weft raising lining. But its color and lapel
parts have high requirements for shape-retention. So the
stiffness of its chosen lining should be comparatively high,
such as shuttle-woven raising lining; the stretch proofing
and shape-retention requirement of its armhole, shoulder
seam, front edge and other parts is quite prominent. And
the elasticity of the chosen lining should be very small
to avoid extensional deformation. The applicable linings
are shuttle-woven lining ……
3). Clothes washing way
Dry-cleaning and washing are the two scouring
ways of clothes. Which way should be adopted depends on
fabric's characteristics and technical method. The clothes
which contain wool fabric and have non-washability technical
structure can only choose dry-cleaning. Therefore, the fusible
interlining should meet the requirements of lining's scouring
way, or else the wearing characteristics of garment would
be affected. The common law is: the garments containing
wool fabric or silk fabric usually adopt dry-cleaning and
their chosen linings should have good dry-cleanability.
Pure cotton, polyster cotton and pure chemical fiber fabric
all are washable and the chosen linings should have good
washability. In order to improve garment's wash resistance
range, under the precondition of fulfilling other wearing
characteristics, we'd better choose the lining which has
both washability and dry-cleanabiltiy.
4). Fabric's fiber components
Fabric's fiber components indicate the fiber
variety forming fabric and fiber's content. Common textile
fabric's fiber includes the cotton and flax of natural fiber
variety, wool and silk of biologic fiber variety, polyester,
vinylon, acrylic and polypropylene of compound fiber variety,
viscose of artificial fiber variety. Among the above-mentioned
fiber, there are not only the fabric composed by single
component but also the fabric blended by two or over two
kinds of fiber and the content ratio of the blended fibers
are different. For example, pure-cotton, pure-wool, pure-polyester
fabric, 65/35 cotton/polyester, 70/30 wool/polyester, 50/50
wool/viscose fiber blended fabric, etc.
For the influence of fiber characteristics, the pressing
and adhesion effect of various fabrics and fusible interlining
is different. And the function requirements could not be
fulfilled under bad handle. So we should pay particular
attention to fiber characteristics of fabric when we choose
linings. The fiber characteristics relating to adhesion
effect directly are:
Different adhesive force
Adhesive force is the joining force of fabric and lining
under certain pressing condition. The stronger the adhesive
force is, the easier the adhesion is and the better the
fastness is. And vice versa.
Adhesive force is produced by thermosol and fiber's adhesive
link. There are three forms: 1 mechanical bonding-thermosol
melt penetrates into the fiber inside and cools, cures inlays
in the fiber slit and bonds to fiber; 2 molecular adsorbent
combination-use the hypo-valence force produced when two-phase
molecular is very near each other to make the molecular
absorb and bond to each other; 3 diffusive and compatible
combination-thermosol and fiber macromolecular segment diffuse
to each other and reduce the slide between molecular and
form the status of mutual belonging to reinforce adhesion
strength. The forming of adhesive link is the result of
many elements of which fiber's character plays a big role.
Generally, fiber and thermosol take one adhesive link of
them as the main adhesion way. Practice proves that different
fiber has different adhesive force. The common law is: pure
wool fabric>pure cotton fabric>silk fabric>chemical
fiber fabric, blended fabric is intervenient between them.
From the arranging order we know that pure wool fabric is
very easy to bond while pure chemical fiber fabric is very
difficult to bond. In order to improve fiber's adhesion
force, people has researched and produced different thermosol
for different fiber's adhesion. So the fabric with different
fiber components should choose appropriate thermosol to
guarantee the good adhesion effect. For example, pure cotton
fabric can choose various fusible interlining because of
its strong adhesion force; pure polyester or partial polyester
fabric can choose PEC fusible interlining; light-weight
fabric or super light-weight viscose, chemical fiber, blended
fabric can choose EVA fusible interlining ……
Different heat resistant temperature
Heat resistant temperature is the innate character
of fiber. Different fiber has different heat resistant temperature.
For instance, cotton and polyester have good heat resistance.
Generally, they can endure the pressing with the temperature
below 180℃. Wool and silk have bad heat resistance. It can
only endure he pressing with the temperature below 160℃.
In addition, the heat resistance of various fiber would
change if they are affected by the heat-setting and resin
finishing during the processing of weaving, printing, dyeing.
So we should firstly test fabric's heat resistance when
we choose linings. The test way is: firstly do the pressing
of various temperature to a small piece of fabric, then
measure its size, observe its change and find out the appropriate
temperature range. Finally choose the linings.
Different size steadiness
Fabric's size steadiness denotes the heat shrinkage
rate and water shrinkage rate. It is consistent with fusible
interlining's dry-cleaning size change and washing size
change in content and emerging cause. It is the common character
of fiber fabrics.
The heat shrinkage rate and water shrinkage rate of the
fabric of different fiber is different. If we don's handle
them well the adhesion effect would be affected. The prominent
problem is that if the shrinkage rates of fabric and lining
are not consistent, the heat shrinking would lead to contraction
and curling after adhesion and water shrinking would lead
to degumming and frothing. To avoid this problem, we should
find out the heat shrinking and water shrinking circs according
to fiber's character and choose the linings whose heat shrinkage
rate and water shrinkage are close to those of fabric to
achieve the synchronizing of its heat shrinking and water
shrinking. See the heat shrinkage rate and water shrinkage
rate circs of common fabrics in graph-5, graph-6.
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Graph-5
Common fabric's heat shrinkage rate
|
| Fabric Variety |
Warp-wise Heat Shrinkage
Rate % |
Filling-wise Heat Shrinkage
Rate % |
| Pure wool fabric |
below 1.0 |
below 1.0 |
| （70/30）Wool polyester
fabirc |
1.0--1.5 |
below 1.5 |
| Polyester viscose blended
fabric |
1.0--2.0 |
1.0--2.0 |
| polyester cotton blended
fabric |
below 1.5 |
below 1.5 |
| Pure polyester fabric |
below 2.5 |
below 2.0 |
|
Graph-6
Common fabric's water shrinkage rate
|
| Fabric Variety |
Warp-wise Heat Shrinkage Rate % |
Filling-wise Heat Shrinkage Rate
% |
| Pure wool fabric |
2.5 |
2.5 |
| (70/30)Wool polyester fabric |
2.0 |
1.5 |
| (60/40)Wool viscose fabric |
3.5 |
3.5 |
| Polyester viscose blended fabric |
3.0 |
2.0 |
| (65/35)Polyester cotton fabric |
1.5 |
1.0 |
| (60/40)Polyeste |
1.5 |
1.5 |
| flax fabric |
|
|
| Pure polyester fabric |
1.0 |
1.0 |
| Silk fabric |
7.0 |
3.0 |
| Viscose fabric |
10.0 |
10.0 |
After having chosen the appropriate linings preliminarily
and in order to guarantee the adhesion effect, we must do
the pressing test and washing test after the adhesion of
fabric and linings. If the result is normal after the tests,
we can confirm the appropriate linings.
5). Fabric stitch structure
Fabric stitch structure includes fabric stitch
and stitch specification. Fabric stitch denotes crossing
structure-weave pattern; stitch specification denotes yarn
count, density, width, weight or other specification items.
Fabric's different stitch structures have different requirements
for linings.
Fabric weave pattern usually has little influence to adhesion.
But some special fabrics which has rough surface or smooth
surface will produce very different adhesion force with
linings. In addition, the same kind of fiber will have different
adhesion effects for their different weave patterns. So
we should choose thermosol and the base cloth that has appropriate
thermosol point mesh size according to fabric's different
weave patterns. For example ,heavy fabric can choose the
lining of 11mesh or 14mesh and smooth fabric can choose
the lining of 17mesh.
There are many yarn count specifications. Heavy, light,
extra light fabrics have different requirements for fusible
interlining. The common law is: Heavy fabric should use
the lining which has high gram weight, big points and sparse
mesh; light and extra light fabric should use the lining
which has low gram weight, small points and big mesh. The
matching ratio of fabric and base cloth should be 3：1; base
cloth's weight should not exceed fabric's 50% weight. This
can not only spread base cloth on the fabric well to support
and serve as a foil to fabric's stiffness and forming, but
also keep fabric's inherent style.
When we choose lining, we should also pay attention to fabric's
elasticity. For instance, knitted fabric has big elasticity,
so it needs the lining which has consistent elasticity to
guarantee its wearing effect. We should also pay attention
to fabric's color and color fastness. For example, white
fabric and light fabric must choose and use the lining that
has the same color, and the fabric which has bad color fastness
should choose the lining that has low melting point. In
addition, some fabric's surface has been processed specially
by wind-proof coating, inflaming retarding coating, oil
repelling coating, water repelling coating and other resin
coatings and this will greatly affect adhesion. So we should
pay particular attention to it when we choose linings.
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