1)、Major technical indexes and their detection method.

A. Peeling strength

Peeling strength is a very important index of fusible interlining. It mainly examines the adhesive fastness after the adhesion of fusible interlining and fabric. The ideal peeling strength should be the destroyer to fusible interlining bulk coherence. Therefore, coating quantity, baking temperature and adhesion condition all are the factors affecting peeling strength. National standards have stimulated the peeling strength indexes of various fusible interlining according to different wearing characteristics. Among them shirt lining is 18 newton/5X10cm, coat lining is 12 newton/5X10cm。During the adhesive bonding, the matching of fabric fiber components and thermosol, the finishing of resin and organosilicon will also affect peeling strength. There are three aspects to assess peeling strength: after-adhesion peeling strength, after-washing peeling strength, after-steaming peeling strength.

The detection method of peeling strength: bond fusible interlining to fabric with press machine, cool it for over four hours, cut it to the pattern of 5cm width, pull apart the lining and fabric, nip it on the press machine to be stretched and to test its peeling streng.

B.Washing size change

Washing size change is also called water shrinkage. It indicates the stability of hygrometric state size of fusible interlining. If the hygrometric state size is not stable, the size stability and shape-retention will be affected. The reasons that cause water shrinkage are the innate wetting expansion of base cloth fiber and the relaxation and shrinkage of the internal stress resulting from the stretching in the processing. There are two basic ways to stabilize washing size change. One way is to use the method of chemical resin finishing to achieve the aim of shrink-proof. Its principle is similar with dry heat size change; the other way is to use mechanical method to do shrunk finish to eliminate the stretching tension of base cloth. The national standards have stipulated the shrinkage indexes of various fusible interlining. For instance, the warp-wise and filling-wise of shirt lining is not above 1.5%，the warp-wise of coat lining is not above 2.5%, and the filling-wise of it is not above 2.0%。

The detection of washing size change is carried out by regulated shrinkage tester and according to regulated test condition. The method is: take a piece of 60cm full-width lining, measure and take three 50cm length marks separately along warp-wise within the width, and measure and take three width marks long filling-wise (measuring should be exact to 0.1cm). Then put the lining in 60±2℃ hot water and wash it for 15 minutes. Then take it out of the water and spread it out. After drying, naturally cool it for four hours. Finally measure the distance between the warp-wise mark and filling-wise mark and then take three arithmetic average values separately from warp-wise and filling-wise. 

The calculating way is washing size change（%）=（pre-test length- after-test length）*100%/pre-test length

C.Dry-heat size change

Dry-heat size is the shrinking phenomenon resulting from fusible interlining's meeting heat in the pressing process. It also called thermo-shrinkage. Thermo-shrinking is quite prominent on chemical fiber fabrics because fiber has insufficient heat setting in the fiber forming process and its inner structure changes again when it is heated once more. The thermo-shrinking on natural fibers is not obvious and there is just some structure change resulting from fiber's heating. The method of stabilizing thermo-shrinking is to strengthen heat setting to chemical fiber base cloth so that it will not occur structure change after being heated once more, and to do reasonable resin finishing to natural fiber base cloth in order to form a layer of tough film on fiber surface and lead to the chemical combination of fiber and resin and reduce the morphological change during heating. The national standards have stipulated the shrinkage index: the warp-wise and filling-wise of cotton base cloth is not above 1.0%；the warp-wise of polyester cotton base cloth is not above 1.5%，and the filling-wise is not above 1.0%。

The detection method of dry-heat size change is: take two test samples of 30cmX30cm lining, draw three marks separately along warp-wise and filling-wise, then bond them together with appropriate adhesion condition, finally measure separately the distance between the warp-wise mark and filling-wise mark on the test samples after cooling and take three arithmetic average values separately from warp-wise and filling-wise.
The calculating way is:
Dry-heat size change（%）=(pre-test length-after-test length) *100%/pre-test length

D.Washing appearance change after adhesion

Washing appearance change after adhesion is the index to examine the washability and dry-cleanabilty after the pressing of fusible interlining and fabric. The quality grade is mainly assessed according to washing time and after-washing fabric's flatness, degumming, frothing or other characteristics .

Washing and dry-cleaning are the two basic garment scouring ways. Different garments have different scouring requirements. For instance, shirt should be washable and woolen western-style clothes should be dry-cleanable. The persistence of the adhesion power of fusible interlining and fabric must meet their scouring requirements. Therefore, washability and dry-cleanability are the important indexes to test this effect.

Washability National standards stipulate that shirt lining should have the ability to resist washing for five times and its appearance flatness and stiffness should reach the fourth grade; coat lining should have the ability to resist washing for two times and its appearance flatness and stiffness should reach the fourth grade. The test way is: take a piece of 30cmX30cm lining and bond it with fabric, after natural cooling put it into home washer, add proper amount washing power, wash it in 40℃ water temperature, wash it for regulated times (15minutes is a time), assess appearance change degree after oven drying and open drying. Put both guide sample and test sample on the same plane and arrange and compare them according to the same warp-wise and filling-wise, then make the grade assessment of the test sample.

Dry-cleanabilty National standards stipulate that coat lining should have the ability to resist dry-cleaning for five times and its appearance flatness and stiffness should reach the fourth grade. The test way is: take a piece of 30cmX30cm lining and bond it with fabric, after natural cooling put it into a small-sized dry cleaner and dry-clean it in the tetrachloroethylene flux whose temperature is not above 30℃, wash it for regulated times (15 minutes is a time) and then air-dry it, finally assess the appearance change degree. Put both guide sample and test sample on the same plane and arrange and compare them according to the same warp-wise and filling-wise.

National standards have stipulated the standard of assessing the washing appearance change of fusible interlining. This standard is used to assess the washability grade of fusible interlining after washing. Grading status is in graph-4.

2.) Appearance quality inspectation

Appearance quality inspection is to inspect and grade the appearance fault of fusible interlining base cloth and spreading thermosol in the way of threading marking and size-extension. Threading marking is to mark the flaws on fabric surface by threading. Size-extension is to extend length for the flaw's affecting use. Appearance inspecting items mainly include: width, the woven deflects bulging on the fabric, rubberized deflects and other spread or partial defects such as end out, hole, omission of coating. National standards stipulate: do threading marking to the flaw that will not affect use and size-extension to the partial flaw that will affect use. Extend the size of every flaw by 15-25cm and assess grade by the 100-meter accumulated threading marking number. First grade one allows 16 threading marks that will not affect use. The grade has to be lowered when the number is over16. The flaws which will seriously affect use such as hole, blotch must be cut through. The grade has to be lowered directly if there are spread defects which can not be cut though.

Appearance quality inspection is carried through under the sand grinding light of 40w. The inspection of the thermosol containing fluorescent agent is carried through under purple light tube. The distance between inspector's eyes and fabric is about 60cm.

3).Wearing characteristic requirement.

In addition to the above-mentioned quality assessing items, fusible interlining has other basic wearing characteristic requirements which have much to do with its functions. These requirements are also the quality assessment of the use value of linings. The wearing characteristics are mainly assessed by experience and sensation. Sometimes, they need confirming by test.

A. Appearance style

Different garments have different dressing styles. Some of them are solemn styles and some of them are leisure style. So fusible interlining also has different and matching style requirements such as full, drape, elegance, pliable, stiff, elastic and other special requirements like color, luster, lightness, etc. With the garment trend's gradual development towards thinness and softness, the requirements for lining's pliability and elasticity become higher and higher.

The style of fusible interlining is mainly assessed by one's visual feel and hand feel. For example, the effects of full, drape and elegance and the color, luster of linings have to be compared by people's visual feel; while linings' softness, stiffness, elasticity and lightness all have to be experienced by one's hand touch. Experience is the most important thing in order to assess exactly the style of fusible interlining.

B.Comfortable wearing

Comfort is one of the basic requirements of garment. With the use of fusible interlining, garment's comfort feel should be improved instead of being reduced. The productive and technical characteristics of fusible interlining demand that the garment should has permeability, freeness, safety and the like characteristics.

Permeability Thermosol is not permeable. If spread the film thermosol or melt thermosol on the base cloth, the lining will lose permeability. The common aim of powder sprinkling coating, powder-point coating and paste-point coating is to make some clearance between the points of thermosol in order to keep some permeability after the adhesion of thermosol and fabric to make wearing more comfortable.

Follow-up property In order to meet the need of garment's adapting to body's free movement, the fusible interlining which has the requirements of elasticity and pliability should has some shape changeability so that it can randomly changes shape according to the different stretching press-accepting directions of garment fabric and avoid damage and has good restitution ability. The follow-up property of fusible interlining should be able to meet the stretching limit requirement of fabric.

Safety The garment containing fusible interlining would do no harm to people's body if the free formaldehyde content is not above the safe index of 500mg/kg

No strike-through After fusible interlining's pressing, thermosol is not allowed to exude out of fabric and base cloth. Or else the appearance, hand feel and wearing comfort feel of garment will be affected seriously. Strike-through not only has something to do with the coating quantity of lining but also with the pressing, adhesion condition and the application method. The way to test strike-through is: underlay a sheet of paper on fabric or lining during adhesion and pressing. If there is strike-through, the paper would bond to the fabric and lining.

C.Convenient use

Convenient use denotes the ease of processing and ease of preservation of fusible interlining during use. Ease of processing indicates that fusible interlining should be convenient for cutting and sewing in the garment production process. For the effect of mechanical friction, the temperature of electrically powered knife blade and sewing machine needle will increase. So if thermosol's anti-sticking ability is bad, it will be bonded to the blade and needle easily. It will even cause the mutual adhesion of fabric slashes and affect the processing quality and production efficiency of garment. Therefore, during the fusible interlining production, we should choose thermosol reasonably and strive to solve the technical adhesion problem to provide convenience to processing use.

Ease of preservation indicates that fusible interlining is not limited by special conditions in various links like use, transportation and storage and it will not occur the phenomena like chlorine retention, yellowing and aging in certain period.